The line at Fellini's snaked down Wickenden Street the day before Thanksgiving, people rubbing their hands together against the November chill, waiting for pizza. Not just any pizza—turkey, stuffing, mashed potatoes, and cranberry sauce reimagined as dinner on a crust. It's the kind of thing that would have your grandmother reflexively making the sign of the cross while mumbling something in Italian under her breath.
But this is Rhode Island.
We're a state with more pizzerias per capita than anywhere else in America—37.3 for every 100,000 residents—that kind of culinary audacity isn't just allowed, it's expected here. We've never let traditional thinking or someone else's expectations stand in the way of what we want—just ask the British about Pawtuxet Village, where another Fellini's location stands, right by the waters where we first learned to cook things hot and fast with the HMS Gaspee. Rhode Islanders have been firing up new recipes since before the Revolution. We simply traded in our muskets for mozzarella.
That line was just one scene in my month-long pizza odyssey. There were 40 coupons in my RI Food Fights “Lord of the Pies" passport, 40 opportunities to explore what Rhode Island pizza has to offer over the course of November.
Over 29 days and 35 pizzerias, I crisscrossed this state, finding pizza in every form imaginable: in biker bars where Harleys lined up like chrome dominoes, in upscale dining rooms where wine lists rivaled the pizza menu, on trucks parked outside breweries in the November chill, and in family-owned shops where the ovens have been running longer than I've been alive.
What emerged wasn't just a tour of great pizzerias—it was a snapshot of Rhode Island itself, told through crust, sauce, and cheese.
Pizza wasn't born in a Michelin-starred kitchen. It started in Naples, with the lazzaroni—the city's working poor—who needed food that would fill an empty stomach without emptying an already thin wallet. A circle of dough topped with whatever was at hand, cooked hot and fast, eaten without ceremony. Street food. No reservations. No dress code. Just simple, delicious food in its purest form. That same spirit lives on today, whether it's a $4 slice from a counter window or a $35 artisanal pie from a wood-fired oven. The ingredients might change, but the fundamental promise remains: hunger meets satisfaction, no questions asked.
Those early Italian immigrants who settled in Rhode Island didn't just bring recipes - they brought an understanding that food could be both necessity and celebration, both daily bread and artistry. Marinara sauce might have started as a way to use up overripe tomatoes, but it became something else: a thread connecting old world to new, poverty to possibility.
Its adaptability is what makes pizza so versatile. When it crossed the Atlantic, it evolved alongside its communities.
New York perfected the thin, foldable slice, its charred crust and tangy sauce designed for speed and portability. Chicago built its deep-dish monuments to excess, layers of cheese and sauce in a buttery fortress of crust. New Haven developed its coal-fired char, those black-bottomed pies that inspired a regional devotion. Massachusetts brought bar pies into the world, thin, dry and crispy, designed to pair with cold beer and warm conversation. Detroit built rectangular pies in blue steel industrial trays, their thick, fluffy crusts caramelized at the edges with cheese. And in Providence, George Germon and Johanne Killeen at Al Forno added their chapter to this story, looking at pizza and thinking "what if we threw this on a grill?"
In Rhode Island, pizza tells our immigration story in real time. Each generation arrives with their own culinary language. On Federal Hill, old-school Italian spots channel Naples in every bite. A few blocks away, Middle Eastern spices perfume the air as za'atar and labneh meet mozzarella.
At Zesty Bites in Providence, Imad merges pizza with his Lebanese culinary heritage, creating pies that reflect both worlds. His crust is light and airy, with a perfectly crisped edge that speaks to his mastery of dough. The sauce is a study in restraint and expertise—fresh, simple, and vibrant, allowing the natural flavors to shine. Imad’s hospitality elevates the entire experience; he treats every customer like an honored guest, reminding you that pizza isn’t just about the food—it’s about the care and connection that go into every slice.
Each variation speaks of home and hope, of preservation and adaptation.
Greek-style pies dominate the local landscape north of Providence, their pan-baked crusts crispy at the edges, soft in the middle, topped with tangy sauce and heaps of cheese. Sicilian pies offer something different—thick, rectangular, focaccia-like crusts, meant to feed a crowd, with corner pieces treasured for their crunch. Grandma pies—thin, square, with cheese layered under the sauce—feel like family heirlooms baked in sheet pans, their simplicity masking the complexity of their perfectly balanced flavors.
While these styles speak to tradition, some pizzerias dare to push boundaries further, transforming local favorites into something entirely new. At Pizza Marvin, their hot wiener pizza shouldn't work—but those red, spiced links nestle into cheese, topped with mustard, meat sauce, onions, and that crucial sprinkle of celery salt. It's the kind of creation that makes sense only if you grew up here, like coffee milk or frozen lemonade. Pure Rhode Island alchemy.
This creative spirit isn't surprising in a state where Johnson & Wales chefs and RISD artists cross paths daily, where culinary tradition meets artistic innovation on every corner. Sometimes this shows up in unexpected places, like at Pizza J in Providence, where a vintage crane hangs overhead, watching diners where mechanics once worked. The open kitchen gleams next to the bays in the floor where oil changes happened, while Universal monsters loom above the bar's bottles beneath a disco ball, and Bob Ross paints his happy trees on the flatscreen to nobody in particular.
At Aloha Pizza and Bar in West Warwick, a massive shark head juts from walls decorated with faded tropical kitsch, presiding over this shot-and-beer sanctuary. Behind the bar, Peaches holds court like the queen she is, her infectious welcome and take-no-shit charm making everyone feel like they belong in a place, even when they clearly don't. The regulars nurse their Buds and whiskey while serviceable pizzas emerge from the kitchen. The pizza itself? Nothing to write home about. But with Peaches running the show, you're too busy enjoying that temporary sense of belonging to worry about the finer points of their crust hydration.
While Peaches reminded me that great service can elevate even average pizza, reflecting on my own history taught me something else about what makes pizza special.
As a college student at Northeastern in the late '80s and early '90s, I was in a perpetual state of scraping by with the kind of bank balance that required precision - typically finding myself with about $7.32 in my checking account each week before my $57 work study job check cleared. The YMCA's ATM on campus was the only one in Boston that would let you withdraw in $5 increments instead of 10s. That flexibility meant the difference between going hungry and getting two Sicilian slices and a Mountain Dew at Boston House of Pizza across the street.
Three decades later, that accessibility remains unchanged - whether you're eating a five-dollar slice standing up at a counter or sitting down to a wood-fired pie, pizza dissolves pretense. We all eat with our hands, we all reach for napkins, we all become equal before a good slice. From dock workers to doctors, from college kids to CEOs, everyone lines up for the same slices, sits at the same tables, reaches for those same shakers of parmesan or red pepper flakes.
And while pizza might be the great equalizer, in the right hands, and through the right heart, it becomes something even more powerful. At Merlino's in Cranston, Carmine treats every customer like they're coming home for dinner. His warmth transforms great pizza into something extraordinary. The crust—light, airy, and perfectly chewy—is a masterclass in craftsmanship, but it's his genuine desire to feed you like family that elevates the entire experience. In an age of automated ordering and delivery apps, he reminds us that hospitality isn't about efficiency—it's about making people feel welcomed, cared for, and cared about.
Some places, like Twins Pizza in North Providence, haven't changed a thing in 65 years - not the wood paneling or vertical blinds, not the golden cone light fixtures or booth jukeboxes, and certainly not the pizza. They don't need to. When you've been drawing people from every corner of Rhode Island since the LBJ administration, you understand that some things don't need reinvention.
At Pizza Works in Pawtucket, those ninety-nine cent slice signs still cover the windows, duct tape letting you know that inflation has changed the costs and the prices over time, but those hand-stretched pies will keep coming out of the oven, feeding another generation something warm and satisfying, in this neighborhood as they have for 50 years.
These aren't just restaurants - they're time machines, community centers, and landmarks rolled into one. The same families who celebrated little league wins here thirty years ago now bring their own kids in for post-game slices, watching them swirl the same parmesan shakers, slide into the same vinyl booths. Those initials carved into the tables by restless teenagers have been worn smooth by decades of elbows and stories, marking family time like growth charts on a kitchen wall. First dates that started here decades ago became wedding rehearsal dinners, became baby showers, became family traditions passed down like their recipes. In these spaces, the steam from the kitchen feels like proof of permanence - a reminder that while everything else changes, there are still places that hold our memories, that welcome us back, that nourish more than just our hunger.
These moments, multiplied across generations and geographies, reveal a deeper truth: Pizza is more than just a meal—it's the thread that ties us together. At its heart are memories, comfort, and the feeling of home, served up in pre-cut slices designed for sharing. Each portion quietly reminds us of the connections we make with others, a reminder of the balance and compromise that shapes our relationships.
Pizza might provide our first lesson in negotiation and etiquette—compromising on toppings, making sure everyone gets their fair share, and mastering the delicate politics of who gets the last slice. How many friendships have started over late-night deliveries? How many relationships have survived their first test during the great pineapple debate? Pizza and beer might still be the only currency strong enough to convince people to carry your old couch up three flights of stairs to a new apartment.
First dates bloom over margherita, both parties trying not to drip sauce or seem too eager about that last slice. Study groups survive all-nighters fueled by pepperoni and determination, textbooks pushed aside to make room for boxes that mark time like empty coffee cups. Office celebrations inevitably begin with someone calling out "I'm ordering pizza - who's in?" - democracy in action, playing out over toppings and crust styles.
And sometimes, when words aren't enough, showing up unannounced with someone's favorite pie says everything that needs to be said.
Every Rhode Islander has their hill to die on - this place has the best sauce, that place has the perfect crust, this other spot hasn't been the same since the original owner's grandson took over. We fight about it the way we fight about politics or sports or where you should break up traffic at the 95-37 split - with absolute conviction and zero chance of changing anyone's mind. But that's the point: pizza is personal. Your favorite spot isn’t just about taste. It’s about memory. It’s about comfort. It’s about home.
This tour took me everywhere in Rhode Island - from Lucky's well-worn hardwoods in Foster, where calloused hands grip pool cues and Luke Bryan mingles with laughter from the back patio's smoking section, where Dunkin the bar dog works the room like a four-legged maitre d', greeting every customer like a long-lost friend. At the other end of the spectrum, white tablecloth spots like Meritage in East Greenwich pair pizzas with wines like sommeliers at a Tuscan enoteca. At The Sticks Pizza Co., wood-fired pies emerge from their truck into the Pascoag night, steam rising like prayers into brewery lights, while inside Bettola in Cranston, pizzas slide out looking sexier than a Ferrari under industrial dome lights, making you rethink what's possible with flour and flame.
Every pizzeria has its own personality - you find pies served on paper plates and porcelain, eaten standing up at counters or settled into deep booths. From Westerly to Woonsocket, each one adds its own voice to Rhode Island's pizza conversation. The settings change but the fundamentals remain constant.
After 35 pizzerias this month, what strikes me most isn’t just the variety—though Rhode Island offers everything from corner slice shops to wood-fired havens. It’s not even the quality, which stands toe-to-toe with any state in the union. It’s how pizza tells the story of who we are and who we’re becoming. In neighborhoods across this tiny state, pizzerias anchor communities. They’re where old-timers welcome newcomers, where family recipes adapt to changing tastes, and where every generation leaves its mark. Pizza is more than just food—it’s a shared ritual, a reflection of our roots, and a vision for what’s next. And in Rhode Island, it’s always been that way. One slice at a time.